Dining at the James Beard Foundation Awards

Dining at the James Beard Foundation Awards
By Tamara Warren

When I was in grade school, I had grand visions of the perfect job — to be the New York Times food critic. I learned much later in life that I lacked the restraint and discerning palette to pursue this sort of writing. As an automotive writer, it’s much easier to consume gas frugally than decadent calories.

I savored the opportunity to fully appreciate the passion and dedication real food writers bring to the table at the James Beard FoundationBroadcast and Journalism Awards Dinner on Friday night.

In her acceptance speech for the International Books category, Grace Young spoke about her father’s profound influence in”Stir-Frying to the Sky’s Edge: The Ultimate Guide to Mastery, with Authentic Recipes and Stories.” She said that her father, her mentor in stir frying, always insisted on sitting in a chair closest to the kitchen to minimize time from the wok to the plate. She struck a note — there is something about food and family stories that invokes the ultimate comfort.

I sat at lucky table #5 with one of the hosts and two of the evening’s winners —Patric Kuh of Los Angeles Magazine who won the Craig Claiborne Distinguished Restaurant Award and Jon Bonne  of the San Francisco Chronicle who won Food Section of a General Interest Publication, along with Miriam Morgan.

Mr. Kuh is a food critic in the traditional sense — he keeps a low profile.  His pieces “Animal Magnetism” “Making Their Move” and “Time for a Redo” are honest and perceptive reviews.

“Even the exposed cutting boards and copper pans appear unself-conscious. The work area is less a performance space than a revving engine,”Kuh writes in one essay, an apt metaphor between food and cars. Did I mention that Mercedes-Benz is one of the James Beard event sponsors? Good food and cars pair nicely.

Ted Allen from the Food Network’s Chopped and Gail Simmons from Bravo’s Top Chefs hosted the event. Of course the food was memorable prepared by chefs Michael Psilakis from Kefi, Ana Sortun from Oleana, Mourad Lahlou from Aziza, and Pichet Ong from Spot Dessert Bar.

The James Beard Award Gala Reception will be held on Mon. May 9 in which the 2011 honors for best restaurants and chefs in American will be revealed. Forks up.

And finally, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention what was on the menu:

First Course – Michael Psilakis, Kefi, New York, NY
White Asparagus and Morel Salad with Marcona Almonds and Pecorino
Pickled White Sardine Sashimi with Cucumber Plank, Black Olive Puree, Sour Greek Yogurt, Dried Tomato and Bronze Fennel
Stella Artois

Second Course – Ana Sortun,, Oleana, Cambridge, Mass.
Salmon in Vine Leaf with Turkish Spices, Pine Nuts, Currants, and Sorrel Butter
Jacob’s Creek Steingarten Riesling 2006

Third Course – Mourad Lahlou, Aziza, San Francisco, Calif.
Angus Beef Tenderloin with Green Farro, Ras el Hanout, Ramps, and Vegetable Escabeche
Campo Viejo Rioja Gran Reserva 1998

Dessert Course – Pichet Ong, Spot Dessert Bar, New York, NY
Chocolate Marqui with Tapioca, Melon, Coconut, and Aleppo
Sandeman Armada Rich Cream Oloroso Sherry

It was delightful.